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Of all the factors by which to differentiate between tourists and travelers, I find masochism to be the most compelling. Tourists try to reduce pain and discomfort while travelers seek it out. Given this seeming paradox, how could they ever interbreed? For this reason our world is gifted with Khao San Road.

Along its endless row of brazen lights and pumping bass, there’s both the best and worst of everything in the city. Dingey bars compete for your attention alongside opulent nightclubs and questionable dining establishments. The only constant to be found is your currency conversion rate — which favors you very heavily, no matter where you’re from.

In a typically schizophrenic fashion, we have a love hate relationship with the place. We first arrived at Khao San from the airport simply because it’s impossible not to — step into any taxi with a confused look on your face and you’ll turn up here sooner or later. Our plan was to use it as a stepping stone to Pattaya, where we hoped to find a remote beach compound surrounded by nothing but jungle and high-speed internet lines.

Not surprisingly, we returned days later, hopes and dreams crushed by the depravity of Pattaya beach. Joined by new members and with a couple nights rejuvenation under our belt, we aim to head out again tomorrow morning to Krabi Peninsula — as much an antithesis to Pattaya as can be found. Let’s hope the results are more to our satisfaction.